Lín Studio

Lín Studio began in a third-floor walk-up on Shanghai's Yongkang Road with a single obsession: a jacket that survives a full working day without needing to be straightened.

The answer turned out to be structural rather than decorative. The studio drafts an armhole roughly a centimetre higher than convention and drops the shoulder canvas, so the sleeve moves independently of the body. Once you have worn it you notice its absence in everything else.

The label joined LePont in its first European season and opened a permanent room in Paris's 3rd arrondissement two years later. It still sells here — a decision the founder describes, dryly, as "the least sentimental one we made".